Art of ornamenting jewelry



(No Model.) v

C. J. LEYERS.

ART OF ORNAMBNTING JEWELRY.

No. 308,504. Patented Nov. 25, 1884.

H II

illlllllllllmr Lima llNiTno STATES CHARLES J. LEYERS, or

PATENT Qrrrcn NEWVARK, NEWV JERSEY.

ART OF ORNAMENTING JEWELRY SPECIFICATION forming part of Letters Patent No. 308,504, dated November 25, 1884.

Application filed March 3, 188-1. (No model.)

T at whom it may concern.-

Be it known that I, CHARLES J. LEYERS, of Newark, in the county of Essex and State of New Jersey, have invented certain new and useful Improvements in the Art of Ornamenting Jewelry, and in articles made according to said art; and I do hereby declare that the following is a full, clear, and exact description of the invention, which will enable others skilled in the art to which it appertains to make and use the same, reference being had to the accompanying drawings, and to letters of reference marked thereon, which form a part of this specification.

My invention relates to that class of ornamentation of jewelry in which the pattern or design on the plate is in relief or depressed,

, and in which certain parts of the pattern are formed of a metal or metals different from that which forms the body of the plate.

One mode of forming a design or pattern of different metals is to solder the plates of the different metals together, then strike up the pattern with as many dies as there are plates, forcing one metal up through the other, and filing and cutting away all the metal which is in the road and obstructing the pattern. Another mode is as follows: After the first impression of a die which forms the entire pattern, those portions of said pattern which are to be formed of a metal or metals different from that which composes the plate are then cutaway. Pieces corresponding in form or dimensions to the openings are then cut out from said different metals and soldered into their appropriate openings. This was found to be a very difficult undertaking, requiring considerable time and labor, and it was found almost impossible to do fine work, owing to the exactness necessary in cutting out the metals to correspond exactly with the openings.

By my invention the difficulties experienced in the two modes above described, of so much time, labor, and exactness, are avoided by cutting the pieces of metal or metals (which are to fill up the openings in the plate) large enough to cover up the openings, next soldering them on the back of the plate over the openings, and then putting the whole plate in the original die again, when the new metal (or metals) will be formed into the required pattern.

In the accompanying drawings, Figure 1 illustrates the face of a plateas, for instance, the back of a watchin the first stage in my improved art of ornamentation. Fig. 2 illustrates the face of the same plate with part of the pattern or design cut away for the insertion of pieces of different metals. Fig. 3 illus trates the back of the plate with the different metal or metals applied to said back; Fig. 4, details of pieces of plates of different metals which are to be applied to the back of the original plate; and Fig. 5 illustrates the face of the plate with the ornamentation complete, the metals which have been applied to the back of the same filling up the openings in said plates.

Similar letters represent like parts in all the figures.

A is the raised pattern or design, which has been struck up by a die upon the face of a metal plate-as, for example, the back of a watch. bare openings in said plate, which are formed by cutting away portions of the pattern A. c c are irregular pieces of metal or metals different from that'which composes the plate proper before they have been acted on by the die which forms the pattern; and (i represents the same pieces after they have been struck up by the die, thus completing the design or picture on the plate.

The operation is as follows: The picture or design A is first struck up 011 the plate by-a die, as shown in Fig. 1. (The plate itself is the body metal or color of the design.) The portion or portions of the design A which are desired to be of a different metal or color are then sawed or cut away, 'as shown in Fig. 2, leaving the openings 1) in the plate. Pieces of sheet metal (or metals) of the desired color larger than the openings I) and different from that which forms the plate are then soldered to the back of the plate over their appropriate openings b. (See Fig. 3.) The plate is now put again into the original die, and the new metal which has been soldered onto the back of the plate will be struck up and forced into the exact position of that part of the plate which had been sawed away. The ornamentation is now complete, and a design or pattern of different metals is produced, as in Fig. 4. v

It is evident that a plate which has been previously ornamented by a pressed pattern may be further ornamented by cutting away a portion of the pattern and proceeding as above described.

\Vhat I claim as my invention, and desire to secure by Letters Patent, is-

1. The art of ornanienting jewelry, consisting of first striking up by a die a pattern or design on the plate to be ornamented, nextcutting away certain portions of said pattern, next soldering to the back of said plate over the openings made by said cutting away pieces of sheet metal of a kind different from the plate and larger than the openings, and finally striking up this pieced plate by the original die, substantially as described.

2. The art of orna-inenting jewelry, consisting of first forming with a die a raised or depressed pattern on the plate to be ornamented, next cutting away certain portions of said raised or depressed pattern, next soldering to raised or de- I the back of said plate over the openings made by said cutting away pieces of sheet metal of a kind different from the plate and larger than the openings, and finally striking up this pieced plate bythc original die, substantially as described.

8. An article of ornamental jewelry consisting of a plate having a raised or depressed pattern, part of which is cut away, and having pieces of sheet metal of a kind different from that of the plate soldered to the back of said plate, covering up the openings made by said cutting away, and the whole again struck up through said openings, forming a completed pattern exactly similar to the original design previous to said cutting away, substantially as shown and described. I

CHAS. J. LEYERS.

\Vitnesscs:

CHAS. G. THIELE, PAUL KAEMMER. 

